It’s been — er — at least a month since the opening of a restaurant as highly anticipated as La Gordita’s, which has been agonizingly slow to update via social media (due to some “surprises” in the construction process) from Conceived of progress to attract its followers to birth. It’s at Gerry’s on Montague Street, a sibling and a more refined sister to the ever-popular Las Tapas De Lola around the corner on Camden Street.
We are three so we booked to be seated at a table rather than at the counter, which to me works best for singles and twos. The welcome from co-owner Vanessa Murphy was warm; it was a relief to see everyone who walked in the door—not just critics—received the same warm reception. Leading the session is Darren Campbell, whom you may recognize from his time in Chapter 1 and the Greenhouse. In one of the seats at the low counter that runs along the wall sits a man in a distinctive floral shirt: Ireland’s own celebrity architect, Hugh Wallace. In the back are a few high tables with a view into the kitchen.
First off, it’s a nice room, and the menu offers something different, although the prices can be a strong breather. So while we were tempted to try the caviar with chips and crème fraiche (€65) and the “entrantes” (small plates) in the “pica pica” (small plates) section of the menu, we resisted.
closure
Grilled octopus tentacles, romesco and potatoes
Grilled octopus tentacles, romesco and potatoes
We started with the gildas and sublime anchoas de Santoña—excellent hand-cut anchovies that María Luisa Moraleda’s kitchen serves on cold bars of Valdeón blue cheese butter with a crisp base, a brilliant combination. Mojama – marinated tuna from Cadiz, sweet and tangy – served with almonds is simple and delicious, while chunks of glistening sourdough bread with whole slow-roasted garlic and squeezed out is a chore , but delicious.
Every dish so far has come from the “pica pica” selection and does not count toward the minimum order per person for a main course and another dish, although those anchovies cost €17. This is a rule that more and more restaurants are starting to introduce, and while I understand why – no restaurateur can afford to have people linger for hours for a few appetizers and tap water – it’s also frustrating for customers , explaining that casual bars are gaining popularity, such as Frank’s on nearby Camden Street, now helmed by Katie Sewell and David Bradshaw, Here you can tailor your experience to suit your appetite and wallet.
Lobster €37 was disappointing as it was all shell and very little meat
A major restaurant supplier must have started introducing sweetbreads, because they popped up on every menu, almost as ubiquitous as croquettes. Here, mollejas are sautéed with garlic and have a beautiful rind; lemon juice brightens the liver-like flavour. Our other appetizer was an open omelet teetering on the edge of solid and liquid, topped with prawns, garlic and herbs.
Friends who ate here a few weeks ago regretted not ordering the rack of lamb, long thin ribs, fatty, on a bed of thinly sliced potatoes, for us the main course winner, although grilled octopus served with romesco and mashed potatoes A well made classic dish.
We rolled the boat out with the bogavante de Formentera, a dish described as a fisherman’s omelette dish with more finely diced potatoes, Padrón peppers and fried lobster, the idea was to break the yolk and mix what was around, effectively Use eggs as a sauce freely. Beautifully presented but the lobster was disappointing at €37 as it was all in the shell with very little meat and was hairy and overcooked inside.
We ended up ordering an upside-down apple tart with rum and raisin ice cream, and torrejas, an almond milk-soaked bread pudding with almond cream, both quite good.
We struggled to find Spanish reds below 14pc ABV and ended up with the excellent but definitely not Spanish Pittnauer Zweigelt (12.5pc ABV, €52). I understand the challenges climate change presents to winemakers, but Spain also has an enticing selection of low-alcohol wines, some of which I’d like to see on La Gordita’s wine list. Our bill for the three of us plus sparkling water and two bottles of wine came to €304.60 before tip. La Gordita is a friendly, delicious place and I would love to come back.
Budget The cheapest two courses cost 30 euros without drinks or tip.
blow out If you have caviar, carabinero prawns, steak, side dish, dessert and cheese, you can eat for two for 230 euros.
